Florence the most populous city in Tuscany, with 367,569 inhabitants (1,500,000 in the metropolitan area). The city lies on the River Arno and is known for its history, its art and architecture. Due to a recent city ordinance vehicles are not permitted to enter the old city center and so the tour bus deposited me just outside the city limits. I walked along a deserted street in the lull of the early morning and was immediately struck by the erie silence that belied the vibrancy of this city. I rounded the bend to enter the main square, there to be greeted by the din of voices from groups of jostling tourists and locals navigating their way through the narrow streets. The city was stirring to life and wanted to impart it's story to all those who would listen.
The first thing that greeted me in the Piazza del Dumo was the rather imposing Basilica di Santa Maria de Fiore, one of Italy's largest churches. With the capacity to hold a staggering 30,000 worshipers the basilica dwarfs the piazza, as it rudely asserts its presence. Even from the furthest corner of the square, it is impossible to get a full picture of it's imposing structure. The facade comprised of a rare white, green, and pink marble is euphemistically referred to as "the wedding cake" and is hated by many of the denizens of Florence.
The narrow cobbled streets that characterize the city are punctuated by stone towers, that were the common architectural structures of the early 1400's. The buildings are still scored with the original apertures that would have supported the scaffolding used to erect the structure, and the walls are lined with small stone plinths that at one time supported ladders linking one building to another; forming a connecting web that snaked its way through these narrow corridors within the city walls.
I arrive at the Piazza della Signoria, a small square crowded with statues that seemingly compete for dominance. However, it is Michaelangelo's David that commands attention. A larger than life sized nude statue of the biblical figure, it was considered shocking and immodest in it's time. The statue, though impressive, is actually a replica. The real David, is housed in the near by Galleria dell'Accademia.
As I step back to gain a better perspective of the nude, I find myself standing on the memorial plaque of the Dominican monk Savonarola. Savonarola was famous for having campaigned to exile the powerful Medici family from Florence; on their return he was tortured and burned at the stake.
These, the histories cemented into it's edifice, are what endear me to this charming old world metropolis. Here, where nothing seems to follow any particular blue print; this city of almost accidental beauty that I have come to know in just a few short hours, holds a great many yet undiscovered treasures.
It would be a grave travesty, if I failed to note that in keeping with it's long history as a center for merchantile trade, Florence is known for its trade in leather goods. From beautifully hand crafted leather to the rather more generic mass produced goods, reminiscent of imports from China; you can shop to the limits of your purse or beyond, with the ubiquitous credit card.
